Words by Joean “Iman” Montayre

Last year, we witnessed the iconic House of Dior celebrating the beauty of diverse cultural heritage by incorporating age-old textile-making techniques from across the globe into their collections.

The brand’s 2020 Cruise Collection paid homage to Ankara, a vibrant wax textile printing technique which was developed in Indonesia that became a beloved staple in African fashion under different names like Chitenge and Kente. Dior also embraced the intricate Sumano art, traditionally seen in pottery, by weaving it into wool fabrics crafted by the talented Ouled Sless women from the mountain ranges of Northern Morocco. Continuing their journey of cultural appreciation, Dior featured the rich, colorful Ikat fabrics from Indonesia in their Summer 2021 collection. The brand’s commitment to reviving historic craftsmanship was further showcased in their 2021 Autumn/Winter collection, where they revitalized Bevilacqua, an embossed velvet fabric once renowned in Italy during the 1800s, alongside Tombolo, a delicate lace-making art from Puglia, Italy. Through these collections, Dior not only honors tradition but also bridges the past with the present, creating a tapestry of fashion that is rich in history, culture, and artistry.

It is not the first time that we see mainstream brands reviving art that are almost forgotten. Designers like Oscar de la Renta has been using traditional fabrics in his designs. In 2005, he employed Uzbek Endek fabrics for his collection. We can also recall the moments when Waris, the Paracas, and the Gamuzas- textiles from South American countries took the limelight in one his collections.

The brand Hermes, in their 2021 collection, revisited a lone surviving art of the Japanese Suminagashi; a unique textile printing technique done by marbling, and incorporated it in their scarf collections.

Isabel Marant, in a breathtaking display of artistry, embraced the ancient Bengali tradition of “Kantha.” This humble yet powerful technique, born out of necessity, transforms the simple act of mending into an intricate art form. With a single running stitch, torn fabrics are given new life, masterfully pieced together until they resemble embroidered masterpieces. But the drama doesn’t end there. Balmain unleashed a collection that redefined the boundaries of fashion, using nothing more than discarded denim scraps. This wasn’t just recycling—it was a bold statement of creative genius. With each weave, each patch, each braid of blue, the designers crafted haute couture like the world had never seen. It was a collection that didn’t just push the envelope; it shredded it, proving that even the most overlooked materials can be elevated to the pinnacle of fashion artistry.

Patchwork denim by Balmain 2014

Appreciating the ancient art of making textiles could be one way of addressing climate change and making more room for creativity. This is what the giants of fashion have been doing for the last several years. Although this doesn’t whitewash their use of synthetic dyes and fabrics, we are seeing demonstrations for sustainable fashion in the runways of Paris and Milan.

There are plenty of ways to upcycle and recycle textile wastes, yet one that is easy and requires no complex machinery is patchwork and quilting. We saw how magnificent patchwork can look in the colorful array of Dolce and Gabbana’s Spring 2021. Similarly, 5 years earlier Chanel showcased a collection that introduces patchwork techniques as well.

Patchwork Coat/ Etro Fall 2014

Patchwork in a grand execution at Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2021

Fashion has often been criticized by environmentalists for its significant role in pollution, and as designers, it is time for us to take decisive action. Our mistake has been turning a blind eye to the rampant rise of fast fashion. Every year, we manufacture tons of textiles, only to be overwhelmed by the surplus, unsure of what to do with it all. Much of this excess ends up on the shores of developing countries, left to rot or creating mountains of waste that scar the landscape.

As modest fashion gains popularity, the demand for these garments will inevitably rise. Yet, this industry is already becoming saturated, with countless brands offering indistinguishable styles. There is little to differentiate the original creators from those simply rebranding or those who are true designers from mere entrepreneurs. Too often, these brands source their products from the same manufacturer, leading to a lack of originality and innovation.

To elevate the modest fashion industry, designers must invest more effort into creating distinct, unique pieces that embody high fashion and sophistication—qualities that mainstream fashion giants have mastered, but which modest fashion still struggles to achieve. By focusing on originality and craftsmanship, we can not only meet market demands but also champion sustainability while delivering luxury and style.

Each region holds a wealth of untapped artistic heritage, ancient textiles, and traditional methods that are waiting to be rediscovered and reintroduced. For modest fashion brands to thrive and sustain themselves, they must look to the practices of the great fashion houses. There is a need for luxury within the modest fashion space, a gap that is yearning to be filled. So let us rise to the occasion and bring luxury home, redefining modest fashion with innovation, elegance, and responsibility.